Rocky Hill Rabbits

Breeding Rabbits
 
Before breeding rabbits you should do some research. It isn't terribly difficult or complicated but knowing what needs done and when can be the difference in losing or saving a litter. 
The first step of course, is to make sure that you have a buck and a doe. If you are buying young rabbits from somebody in the hopes to let them grow and then breed them it is very important to learn how to tell the sexes apart. Determining gender in young rabbits is not always easy and it's something that takes practice to be able to get it right most of the time. Hillrise Rabbitry has put together a fantastic guide with pictures that demonstrates the differences at different ages. You can view that here. 
 
What age can you breed rabbits?
The smaller breeds; Lionhead, Netherland Dwarf, Dutch, Brittania Petite,Jersey Wooly, Dwarf Hotot, etc, reach sexual maturity at 3 1/2- 4 months. Medium breeds such as most of your commercial meat types, reach sexual maturity at 4- 4 1/2 months of age and the giant breeds like the Checkered Giant, Flemish Giant, Giant Angora, French Lop, take 6-9 months to mature.
If you do not wish rabbits to breed once they reach sexual maturity, you MUST separate the bucks and does! 
Before breeding it is important to have the buck and doe in great body condition; not too thin, not overly fat, and not sick. Also consider your cage space and if your cage/hutch is suitable to house babies. Weather is also a factor. Many breeders stop breeding rabbits during the hottest part of summer and the coldest part of winter due to increased risk of death due to freezing or heatstroke.
 
What do I do?
You want to take the doe to the buck's cage. This is the usual way but I have taken the buck to the doe's cage without any aggression. Most say to take the doe to the buck because the buck tends to get distracted in the new environment and would rather check out the doe's cage than focus on the task at hand, and does can be very territorial and may fight if the buck is put in her cage.You should remove any extra stuff in the cage that may interfere; hay rack, toys, etc. It's a good idea to stay nearby so you can watch. If the doe is receptive she will most likely stay still and lift her hips when the buck mounts. If you see the buck fall off the doe that indicates a successful breeding. If the doe isn't receptive you will know it right away. She may growl, run away from the buck, or attack him. If she allows him to mount, she will not lift her hips. 
Most breeders let the buck have 3-5 fall-offs and return the doe to her cage. 
 
    Normal gestation period is 31 days, but they can go a little earlier or a little later. You should wait until day 41 to rebreed a doe who you think isn't pregnant after being bred. During the pregnancy the doe may not even appear to be pregnant but you might notice a change in her personality. Many sweet-natured does suddenly become aggressive, almost over-night after getting bred. This is normal and once she kindles they usually return to their old selves quickly. Feed the doe the same amount she has been getting through her pregnancy. 
 
At day 28 I will put in a nest box for her and I put in hay or straw. I don't put it in the box, I will lay the hay/straw in her cage and she will stuff her mouth full then pack it into the box. They will also normally pull fur to put in the box also, but every doe is different regarding when they pull fur. Some pull fur and get the nest built a week in advance, others pull fur 24 hours or moments before they kindle. If the doe insists on making her nest outside of the box, this is ok. Simply move the nest and kits inside the box once she has them. 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
If the doe delivers on time, you'll check the nest box to see the pile of fur moving. It is important to check the newborns to ensure none are dead and you want to remove any uneaten placentas. Some does may be very nervous or protective so what I do with the nervous or aggressive does is put something solid between me and her, such  as the feed tub lid while I quickly move the fur and check for dead babies, placentas, or chilled, weak kits. It is not true that if you touch or disturb the kits the mother will abandon them. You do want to make sure to cover the kits up with the fur the way it was when you first saw them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The doe normally does not stay in the nest box with the kits and usually feeds them twice a day; early morning and again at sunset, so do not panic or worry that she isn't feeding them. A good way to determine if the kits are being fed is to check on them in the morning. Their bellies should be nice and round and they should feel warm.
 
 
 
 
 
 
In the event that a doe has a large litter and is unable to nurse all the kits you can try to get another doe to foster a few. It is more successful if you put a few of the larger, stronger kits in the foster doe's litter and cover them with the fur from her nest so the new ones smell like her own. The kits should be close in size also. If fostering doesn't work you can try raising them by hand.
You can use canned kitten milk replacer, warmed, or use this formula: 1/2 cup evaporated milk, 1/2 cup water, 1 egg yolk and 1 tablespoon corn syrup. The amount fed in one sitting is 1/2 teaspoon up to 2 tablespoons, depending on the age of the kits. It is best if the kits are able to stay in the nest and are just taken out to be fed but if that isn't an option they should be kept warm, dry, and quiet. Before they open their eyes kits must be stimulated to use the bathroom. At around 2 weeks of age they start nibbling on greens and pellets and they can be weaned at 4 weeks.
 
The doe and the kits should be closely monitored for any signs of illness. Digestive issues are quite common in kits and recently weaned rabbits, and nursing does may be at risk for developing mastitis. You can read more about these issues on the Helpful Information page.