Rocky Hill Rabbits

Rabbits can be housed in numerous different types of hutches, cages, pens,etc. They can be housed outside or inside and this decision will influence what type of hutch or cage your rabbit needs.

 

The cage must be escape-proof and as "varmint" proof as you can make it. Big gaps in the wire, holes in the wood, loose J feeders, all are ways that bunnies could escape or predators get in.

 

Let's look at some different materials you could use to make a rabbit hutch.

 

Wire: You want to use a wire that is galvanized for added strength and durability and thick wire so the rabbit's can't easily chew through it. When looking at wire you'll notice different "gauges" such as 14 gauge, 12 gauge, etc. Gauge refers to the wire's thickness, so a 14 gauge wire is thicker than 12 gauge. Remember though, the thicker the wire, the rougher it will feel and a rough wire may lead to sore hocks. 14 gauge wire should be suitable.

Now, look at the size of the openings in the wire. 1" x 1" square wire is fine for adult rabbits if used for the sides/top but babies can very easily get their heads stuck (been there!) and it is too big to use for the floor. 1" x 1/2" wire is suitable for all sides and baby-proof. 1/2" x 1/2" is commonly used for the floor.

Chicken wire, while it can be used for the sides/top for an adult rabbit, in my opinion it isn't very safe. Chicken wire also tends to be thinner and more flimsy and the openings in it can allow snakes or other predators in and it's definitely NOT baby-safe!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moving on to wood: Some owners prefer keeping their rabbits in an all-wire cage, some prefer to use only wood, and others use a combination of wood and wire. If you plan on keeping your rabbit outside you definitely should use wood. Rabbits need protection from wind, rain, and the hot sun. 

There are many types of wood you can use. Oak and pine are among the most common. It is very important to use non-treated wood! Rabbits will chew on the wood and the chemicals used to treat the wood will make them sick. Also, do not paint the wood that the rabbits can chew and do not weatherproof or stain the wood. Plywood is a fairly cheap option and may work pretty well but there are better choices that will be more durable. Plywood is also pretty thin so once they start chewing it won't take them long to chew a hole through it.

If you use wood for the floor instead of wire you will have to regularly clean the cage out because the feces and urine will pile up quickly and if it's left in the cage ammonia will accumulate. 

 

Other things to consider: The cage should be large enough that the rabbit can fully stretch out, have room to hop around. 18" tall is considered the minimum and 3' x 3' is fine for medium breeds. The giant breeds such as Flemish Giant, Checkered Giant, etc require much more space. If you breed or plan on breeding your rabbits, you'll need room for the nest box and room for the kits once they start exploring so more space is always a plus.

 

Rabbits can get sore hocks, more so in the larger breeds, so providing a board or rubber mat they can rest on is a good idea.

 

The cage should have plenty of ventilation but also protect the rabbit from the elements. On outside hutches the roof should slant towards the back to keep rain and snow from dripping into the hutch. Tin on the roof attracts heat, making the hutch hotter in summer. 

 

Hutches and cages should be up off the ground to protect them from predators.

 

To help reduce flies, odor, and ammonia you should have a method for removing the feces. You can use 5 gallon buckets placed under the hutch then empty the buckets on your compost pile, garden, or sell it for fertilizer. You can use drop pans or litter trays underneath or rig up another way. What I do is use an old kiddie pool under one hutch, and I have several 5 gallon buckets placed underneath the other hutches. I rake out underneath the hutches once a week and haul it out to the pasture where I spread it for fertilizer. I want to get some big plastic drums and cut them lengthwise and place under the hutches that don't have buckets. I don't mind having to rake the barn once a week, since earthworms and nightcrawlers love the dirt under the cages ;) 

 

 

Exercise: Rabbits shouldn't have to spend their lifetime in a cage and many enjoy getting out for a little while. You can make a rabbit tractor, which is just a portable little fenced area where they can graze on the grass and run around. You can also build a permanent little pen outside where they can stay for an hour or so a day. If you do put your rabbit outside, you should make the tractor or pen with a wire top and some sort of wire on the bottom so they can't dig out. You should also provide shade on one end.